I tried to use all genuine parts where possible (some items are just stupidly priced so I used Bearmach as a substitute) but I'd say it was 90% genuine. I sourced most of the bearings locally from SaecoWilson, but there were a few that worked out cheaper to get from the UK. For these I used Britpart 'G' suffix items, which are actually reputable brand bearings, just in a blue box, in this instance they were NTN bearings which are good quality. Here is my total list of parts used
Part No. | Description | Qty |
55714 | primary pinion brg RLS12 | 1 |
6397 | Brg Needle Roller Spigot main shaft front | 1 |
RTC1957 | Main Shaft snap ring | 2 |
591364 | Syncro ring 1st/2nd | 2 |
RTC1979 | Mainshaft peg | 1 |
576734 | Mainshaft bush | 1 |
600603 | Gearbox gasket kit | 1 |
1645 | mainshaft rear brg 6307 | 1 |
528701 | layshaft front brg 6305 | 1 |
RTC1412 | Layshaft rear brg - cyl. Roller CFL7A | 1 |
521328 | Inter Thrust Washer T Box | 2 |
599869 | Inter roller brg | 2 |
217490 | Output shaft brg rear T/Roller 14137A | 1 |
90217512 | Low Gear/Speedo Drive brg t/roller 28317 | 1 |
217325 | Front output brg RLS10 | 1 |
272596 | O Ring Selector Shaft forward gears | 2 |
272597 | O Ring Selector Shaft reverse | 1 |
5852 | sealing ring - indent springs | 2 |
3649 | selector spring forward gears | 2 |
56102 | selector spring reverse | 1 |
211502 | Oil seal speedo drive | 1 |
217476 | Rear Mainshaft Lock Tab S1 2 2A & 3 | 1 |
267828 | o ring speedo drive | 1 |
561197 | intermediate shaft shim | 2 |
532323 | intermediate shaft o ring | 1 |
591363 | 2nd gear | 1 |
RTC1956 | detent spring 3rd/4th synchro | 3 |
9960 | Circlip main shaft brg | 1 |
528683 | lock washer layshaft front brg | 1 |
231116 | Spring for reverse gate | 2 |
TRS1013L | Range selector shaft seal | 1 |
FRC1387 | gear lever ball o ring | 1 |
219723 | Gear lever spring | 1 |
236305 | mainshaft rear oil seal | 1 |
FRC1780G | Output seal | 2 |
571059G | Front oil seal | 1 |
561954 | Reverse idler bush | 1 |
608283 | in/out mech 1st-2nd | 1 |
591362 | 1st gear | 1 |
556010 | 3rd gear | 1 |
FRC1758 | 3rd/4th Synchro clutch | 1 |
571218 | Mainshaft distance sleeve | 1 |
So in short, I replaced every seal, every gasket and every bearing. I could talk you through the entire process but all the info is out there on the web. Instead I'll list my sources of info:
- https://www.youtube.com/user/steamwally This guy has excellent videos and is obviously a good engineer.
- http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/ As always, geoffs blog is super handy
- Series 3 Workshop Manual Pretty obvious but everything you need is in here, just not in sequential order so have a flick through first. (only thing I couldn't find in here was the torque for the main shaft nut, which I ended up taking from a Fairey Overdrive manual, and is 100 ft/lb.
I'll let the photos do the talking
Bits and pieces repainted black
Parts cleaned and ready for assembly
Castings degreased
Genuine gears
Ready to go
New reverse idler bush fitted and machined to fit shaft. Thanks to my Dad, as I was off work and didn't have access to a lathe
Reverse Idler fitted
Box of bits from brit-car
Setting end floats on the main shaft. This was quite time consuming, but all within spec eventually after taking to the bush with some fine emery2nd & 3rd gears fitted up. Use a new snap ring for this (get 2, as you have to take it on and off a few times while setting the end floats, and they stretch.
Genuine synchro (baulk) rings
Fitted, I had to use some very fine sandpaper on the gear cone to polish it slightly , as the synchro rings were 'screwing' onto the fine machining marks, effectively getting 'stuck' to the gear.
New 1st gear bush
All new except 3rd gear and the main shaft
New springs in the 3rd/4th synchro clutch
Main shaft bearing, taken from it's original packaging, probably older than the Land Rover!
New oil seal fitted rear of main shaft
Layshaft rear cylindrical roller bearing
Outer race of layshaft bearing fitted to the main gear case. Contrary to what you may be told, you don't need to freeze or heat all the interference fits. A correctly sized mandrel to press on either the inner or outer race (depending on situation) and a decent hammer was all I needed. |
Main shaft & Layshaft in the box
Primary pinion shaft and bearings fitted to the bell housing
Bellhousing fitted. This is a fiddle and requires 3 hands to align the first layshaft gear with the primary pinion, while also aligning the castingsNew seals fitted to selector shafts. They are genuine LR seals, but they don't look like they'll keep much oil in. I guess that makes it a 'genuine' gearbox if its leaking |
Torquing main shaft nut, to 100 ft/lb with the CORRECT TOOL! No cold chisels in sight..
Main casing finished (lever fitted just to test that all gears selected)
Outer race of taper roller bearing on it's way into the transfer case
Low & Hi gear fitted
1x Timken & 1x NTN (britpart 'G' Suffix) Taper roller bearings
Setting bearing pre-load of output shaft with a spring scale (0.9 - 1.8 kg) This is adjusted by adding or removing speedo housing shims Intermediate gear with new thrust washers, o ring and needle roller bearings. I bought new Santana shims incase the endfloat was excessive but the new thrust washers provided a nice fit.
Front output bearing fitted, flange w/ seal about to go on
Lo/Hi range and 4WD selector shafts fitted
Front output housing fitted to transfer case
Mating up to the main gearcase
View from the bottom of the transfer case
Transmission brake parts painted up
Hasn't looked this good since 1973
New shoes and springs
Drum fitted. The nylock nuts are BSF thread. 99% of the gearbox is BSF/BSW so invest in a whitworth socket & spanner set
Gearbox back in it's rightful place!
I've got 2 new propshafts to go on now, and then the plan is to get the brakes fitted , with all new brake pipes etc.
How's the landy project going now? Just read all the posts and it's made me very jealous. Just thought I'd comment to let you know that I'd enjoyed reading your blog and that it's great seeing the progress you've been making!
ReplyDelete(A braver man than me going for the full re-build!)
I've got a late 80's defender that I've currently got in pieces over on my parents farm. I need to get back to it and finish the bulkhead replacement.
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